Bhanu Athaiya became the first Indian to win the Academy Award for India in 1983 in Los Angeles, California. It was a monumental achievement for India on the global stage. She was awarded an Oscar for Best Costume Design category for her deep understanding of Indian clothing history for the iconic “Gandhi” film.
The journey to win the first Academy Award for India
Radhika Gupta, daughter of Bhanu Athaiya, said, “She was extremely meticulous with her costumes, so much so that she tied every single person’s dhoti herself for Gandhi’s cremation scene in the movie. Along with her helpers, she would tie approximately 100 dhotis in 15 minutes.”
Bhanu Athaiya opened a new door for Indian artists to expand their art internationally. 1983 was a historic moment for us when Bhanu Athaiya received the Oscar Award for her flawless work in Richard Attenborough’s movie “Gandhi”. Behind this historic achievement of her, there are years of dedication and her passion for the arts. How was the early life of Athaiya?
Bhanu Athaiya was born on 28th April 1929 in Kolhapur Maharashtra. She started her career as a painter in her early career. She was also a member of the Bombay Progressive Artist’s Group. However, her career made a transition when she joined as a costume designer in Bollywood in the 1950s.
In her early works in Bollywood, she collaborated with renowned directors such as Guru Dutt. The first movie was a crime thriller movie by Guru Dutt, named “CID” in 1956. After that, she gained the opportunity to work in other Dutt films including “Pyaasa” (1957), “Chaudhvin Ka Chand” (1960) and “Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam” (1962).
Athaiya’s passion for costume design and her creativity make her the go-to costume designer of Bollywood during that period. She was doing an average of six movies in a year because of her popularity in Bollywood.
Her career changed when she was approached by Richard Attenborough to design costumes for the international project of “Gandhi”. The movie required an authentic touch of Indian history and its diverse community during the colonial period. Here Athaiya showed her excellence by doing extensive research on the clothing style of Indian culture during that period.
She represents the simplicity of Gandhi ji through dhoti and her elaboration in the Britisher’s outfits and Indian leader’s outfits helps to deliver an immersive experience to the audience. The movie gained huge success and got nominated for 11 Oscars and 8 winnings. Bhanu Athaiya was one of the winners who was awarded for Best Costume Design.
Bhanu Athiya’s contribution to Indian cinema
Bhanu Athaiya was an influential and iconic character in the Indian film industry. She crafted some memorable outfits in her six-decade-long career. She can understand the essence of every character and her design research and art make it possible to create memorable and historical outfits.
Some of the iconic looks she created for A-lister actors include Zeenat Aman, Waheeda Rahman, Mumtaz and Vyjayanthimala. Even Rekha, one of A-lister actors of Bollywood said that her personal life dress sense was inspired by her. The versatility of her designing knowledge can be understood through CID, Amarapali and Satyam Shivam Sundaram. In these movies, she represents both contemporary and historical outfit styles.
She also worked designing outfits for futuristic movies. Her experimental designs like the metallic breastplate for a commercial for Onida television in 1996 were appreciated. Her experimental work to represent the financial realities of village life in Reshma Aur Shera in 1971 was also commendable.
She said, “Village folk can’t possibly afford to make an entire outfit from the same piece of fabric.” Henceforth, in Reshma Aur Shera, she ensures that the outfits of villagers should not be matched.
Her daughter, Gupta recalled, “She was never interested in mass production of costumes. She preferred working on a single piece at a time and giving it the kind of time that it needed. There was not a single occasion when a costume came back for changes.”
Athaiya introduced innovative and creative fashion trends of colour blocking by getting inspired by the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. In 1983, this fashion trend was used in the film Pukar to make Aman’s costume. This film was based on the Goa Liberation Movement and her new fashion trend of showcasing her forward-thinking approach in the Bollywood industry.
We shouldn’t forget about her commendable work at “Lagaan,” released in 2001 and directed by Ashutosh Gowariker. She showcased 19th-century cultural outfits in this movie. Again here she showed her creativity in putting simplicity in the villagers’ clothes and crisp and tailored uniforms of British colonial officers showcasing the contrast between Indian culture and British culture.
Achievements and awards of Bhanu Athaiya
1951: Bhanu Athaiya’s work on “Lady in Repose” was recognised by the Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal at JJ School.
1983: First Academy Award for India in the Best Costume Design category for “Gandhi.”
1991: For the movie “Lekin…” she received the Silver Lotus Award in the category of Best Costume Design.
2002: She received the Silver Lotus Award for Best Costume Designer for the movie “Lagan: Once Upon a Time in India.”
2009: In 2009 she won the Filmfare Lifetime Achievement Award.
2013: Athaiya was awarded by Laadli Lifetime Achievement Award for her influential work and inspiration for future generations.
Personal life and later career
Being a part of a cosmopolitan family, Bhanu Athaiya was always nurtured and motivated to follow her dreams in the arts. Her father Annasaheb Rajopadhye shaped her artistic life and introduced her to the world of art. However, he left her at the age of nine.
Later, she got married to a filmmaker, named Ramesh Behl. She has a private life with her husband and handles her work. However, in her later career, she followed her passion for the arts and showcased her design style in modern films. Although her achievements, she remains the most humble and passionate person in the film industry.
However, her versatility in costume design was remembered as an influential part of Indian cinema. From Sadhna’s tight-fitting kurta churidar to the iconic costumes of the vibrant orange saree of Mumtaz she showcased her talent and significantly contributed to the fashion trend of Bollywood.
FAQ
1. Who was Bhanu Athaiya?
Bhanu Athaiya became the first Indian to win the Academy Award for India in 1983 in Los Angeles, California. She was awarded an Oscar for Best Costume Design category for her deep understanding of Indian clothing history for the iconic Gandhi film.
2. What significant achievement did Bhanu Athaiya accomplish in 1983?
1983 was a historic moment for us when Bhanu Athaiya received the Oscar Award for her flawless work in Richard Attenborough’s movie Gandhi.
3. What was Bhanu Athaiya’s early career like?
Bhanu Athaiya was born on 28th April 1929 in Kolhapur Maharashtra. She started her career as a painter in her early career. She was also a member of the Bombay Progressive Artist’s Group. However, her career made a transition when she joined as a costume designer in Bollywood in the 1950s.
4. Which notable directors did Bhanu Athaiya work with early in her career?
In her early works in Bollywood, she collaborated with renowned directors such as Guru Dutt. The first movie was a crime thriller movie by Guru Dutt, named CID in 1956.
5. What recognition did Bhanu Athaiya receive for her work in the film “Lagaan”?
In 2002, she received the Silver Lotus Award for Best Costume Designer for the movie “Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India.”
6. How did Bhanu Athaiya contribute to the film “Gandhi”?
She represents the simplicity of Gandhi ji through dhoti and her elaboration in the Britisher’s outfits and Indian leader’s outfits helps to deliver an immersive experience to the audience.
7. What was Bhanu Athaiya’s philosophy regarding costume production?
Gupta recalled, “She was never interested in mass production of costumes. She preferred working on a single piece at a time and giving it the kind of time that it needed.”
